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How to Become an "Expert Knitter"   *Buy this book on CD for offline reading!

table of contents Ľ chapter 19 (of 29)

19: Stitch to Stitch or Horizontal Seams (cont.)

If the shoulder shaping has been stepped, treat the steps as if they didnít exist [pic 14].


14: Stepped shoulder. This is exaggerated because the steps are not usually as short as these.

Work the seam using the stitches below the cast-off row in sequence, and even if the next stitch is two rows higher or lower because of the step, just join it to the corresponding next stitch on the other piece. When the seam has been firmed up by being tightened and then released, the steps will be either hidden, or at least less obvious [pic 15].


15: The steps are not obvious on the right side when the shoulder has been joined by matching stitch to stitch.

If there are little holes left after joining, close them with a stitch worked with a needle and thread on the wrong side.

If you rely on using a backstitch seam on a stepped shoulder, it will be hard to stop that seam from looking messy [pic 16].


16: Itís hard to make a backstitch seam on a stepped shoulder look perfect.

A back stitch seam on a stepped shoulder is usually worked some distance from the edge because you are trying to avoid the dips and dives of the steps. Because of this, the seam becomes very thick, and thereís nowhere for the extra fabric to go except for it to stand up like an epaulette on the shoulder. A matched seam worked on the closest stitches on the cast-off row produces a much finer seam [pic 17,18].

   
17: (left) A big fat backstitch seam inside the shoulder.
18: (right) A finer matched stitch seam.
 

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