Garter stitch is another animal altogether. If you are using the same size needle and yarn as the rest of the garment, the sleeve will be too wide and wavy if you pick up a stitch for every row along the edge of rows. Three stitches for every four rows sometimes works, but is still usually too bunchy. Pick up one stitch to every two rows and this will allow the fabric of the sleeve to sit flat along the armhole [pic 6,7,8].

   
6: (left) One stitch to every row on garter stitch. Frilly effect.
7: (right) Pick up one stitch to every second row.

8: One stitch to every two rows.

Pattern stitches break all these rules. In this case, measure the length of the armhole from the shoulder seam, then measure the number of stitches or pattern sequences needed to get the same measurement. Pick up that number of stitches evenly on each side of the shoulder seam.

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