Quite often, the hem band has been knitted with a smaller needle, which has the effect of gathering the body of the garment into the smaller shape of the band. The main reason for this is an attractive gathered shape, but then the ratio of stitches to rows on the side of the hem band has to be taken into account. Pick up two stitches to every three rows along the side of the hem and if the needle size is much, much smaller, pick up one stitch to every second row [pic 9].

9: Two stitches to three rows along the side of the hem band, then three stitches to every four rows.

When using a smaller needle for the bands, pick up one stitch for every row along the front edge. Because the needle is finer, the stitches aren’t as wide and fit more exactly to the side measurement of the rows [pic 10].

10: Using a smaller needle for the bands than for the garment, pick up one stitch to every row, and the band will fit perfectly.

If the band has been worked with smaller needles, pick up three stitches to every four along the side of the hem band [pic 11].

11: A hem band worked with smaller needles. Pick up three stitches to every four rows along hem edge, then a stitch to each row.

Whatever the number of stitches picked up, make sure to pick up the same number of stitches on the corresponding side.

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